Sado Island

As I mentioned in my previous post, Sado Island was a huge huge thing off my bucket list. My JET application was actually to Sado and Zeami (founder of Noh) was exiled to this island where he wrote the Kadensho (one of his most influential works). 1/3rd of Japan’s Noh stages are on Sado. This was also THE place to be exiled to back in the days and so a LOT of Japan’s old culture was brought to this island and still survives to this day. Yea… you can probably tell that I love a lot about this island.

It was one of those things that I had to do for myself and I’d fondly named it as My Pilgrimage. Boy, did the trip live up to it’s name. 2 nights at a youth hostel and 3 in a tent. No trains, only irregular (and horribly timed) busses. 80% of what I saw online was in Japanese and timings/schedules were hard to come by in English. All in all, it made for the perfect solo adventure.

AAAND, because I was gonna spartan it out…I mean, REALLY spartan…I even got down to buying a hiking backpack and rain pants and jacket because of this. I told all my loved ones (ok just mum, dad and bro) that I was gonna be MIA for like 90% of the trip. So, to put everyone at ease, I decided to document my days on Sado every night. They turned up pretty nice (if I might say so myself) so I decided to put them together:

 

Day 1: Alive and Safe. 3:30am Woke up 5:15am Train to Tomari station 6:24am Transfer to Echigo TOKImeki railway 7:35am Reach Naoetsu 7:40am Cab to Naoetsu Port 7:50am Reach Naoetsu Port 9:30am Ferry sets sail 11:10am Ferry reaches Ogi Port 11:21 am Catch Ogi Line Bus 12:37pm Alight at Aikawa (bus was early) 12:37pm Catch Hon Line Bus (in the nick of time) 1:00pm Reach Himezu Minami Bus Stop 1:06pm Reach Bellemer Youth Hostel, Alive.

Day 1: Alive and Safe.
3:30am Woke up
5:15am Train to Tomari station
6:24am Transfer to Echigo TOKImeki railway
7:35am Reach Naoetsu
7:40am Cab to Naoetsu Port
7:50am Reach Naoetsu Port
9:30am Ferry sets sail
11:10am Ferry reaches Ogi Port
11:21 am Catch Ogi Line Bus
12:37pm Alight at Aikawa (bus was early)
12:37pm Catch Hon Line Bus (in the nick of time)
1:00pm Reach Himezu Minami Bus Stop
1:06pm Reach Bellemer Youth Hostel, Alive.

 

Day 1 (Part 2): Still alive and safe. 4:00pm-6pm: Woke up around 4pm. Hostel owner offered to drop me off at a nearby mom and pop shop (think mama shop), so I could grab dinner. Grabbed some (overpriced) food, ate at hostel and then went out again to catch the sunset. 6:00pm-7:00pm: The bridge was actually closed off, but a local lady smiled cheekily at me and told me to just sneak through the side anyway. Got a brilliant panorama view of the coast and a very pretty, unobstructed sunset (although a bit cloudy). Line called mum and chitti to show off my awesome lyf. 7:00pm-8:00pm: Came back to the hostel feeling really relaxed. Had a skype interview with Vasantham (Sinagapore Tamil TV channel) about the Singapore Arts scene on my iphone while looking really shifty with terrible Tamil and an unwashed face. Thanks Elakeyaa for opportunity, really appreciate it and I just hope I did SOME justice to the interview! Shameless AD: Ethiroli, Sept 2nd, 9pm. Go watch. 8:00pm-9:00pm: Took a really nice warm shower and realized I didn't have to share my shower or my room with strangers (for ONCE) at this hostel. Omg, joy, money paid so worth it. Now:gonnacrashandsleepagain Wake-up time (plan) : 5am

Day 1 (Part 2): Still alive and safe.
4:00pm-6pm: Woke up around 4pm. Hostel owner offered to drop me off at a nearby mom and pop shop (think mama shop), so I could grab dinner. Grabbed some (overpriced) food, ate at hostel and then went out again to catch the sunset.
6:00pm-7:00pm: The bridge was actually closed off, but a local lady smiled cheekily at me and told me to just sneak through the side anyway.
Got a brilliant panorama view of the coast and a very pretty, unobstructed sunset (although a bit cloudy). Line called mum and chitti to show off my awesome lyf.
7:00pm-8:00pm: Came back to the hostel feeling really relaxed. Had a skype interview with Vasantham (Sinagapore Tamil TV channel) about the Singapore Arts scene on my iphone while looking really shifty with terrible Tamil and an unwashed face. Thanks Elakeyaa for opportunity, really appreciate it and I just hope I did SOME justice to the interview!
Shameless AD:
Ethiroli, Sept 2nd, 9pm. Go watch.
8:00pm-9:00pm: Took a really nice warm shower and realized I didn’t have to share my shower or my room with strangers (for ONCE) at this hostel. Omg, joy, money paid so worth it.
Now:gonnacrashandsleepagain
Wake-up time (plan) : 5am

 

Day 2: MANY buses and 1 taxi later. Happy, Safe and un-Kidnapped. Finally completed my somewhat pilgrimage aim. What a day... Took the 7:28am bus out of Himezu and went to Aikawa, transferred bus and went to this place called Imizu and started my day with a (somewhat wild goose chase) trip to Shohoji Temple. Wasn't able to see a famous Noh mask...BUT got to see a stone bench that Zeami Motokiyo apparently sat on! Then took a bus to Sawata and talked to the tourism info people to come up with a plan. (I accidentally got off thinking sawata wld have more to do) Then took a bus to Kin-zan (gold mountain) where they used to mine for gold in the days. The place was beautiful and surprisingly COLD. Seriously, Sado seems to get a lot colder than Toyama! Anw, went through tunnels and went to the top where you see the mountain cleaved in two. This point is called Doyu no Wareto. THEN, just to feel rich, I ate gold flaked ice-cream. Cuz in Japan, EVERYTHING is made into soft-serve ice-cream. After my gold journey, I hopped on another bus to visit this place called Kitazawa floatation and power plant. It's used to be the biggest gold ore concentrator in East Asia but was shut down after the war... And now it's over-run with weeds, grass and nature... Cuz circle of life. Loved that place. So many possibilities. I then strolled up a bit and saw the Bugyosho (some important building... But I didn't have much interest in it) and an old bell called Jishoro to pass time before I ran to catch my next bus. Ran to my next bus. I thought I'd have to go back to Aikawa but the bus driver informed me that if I wanted to go to the Noh performance that I'd mentioned, I should get off at an earlier stop and walk. And THEN, I bumped into the guy who'd composed the music for part of the performance and he brought me along to the performance area (another member of the team gave us a lift) and I reached about 3 hours early. =_= they were real nice tho and let me watch the rehearsal and let me have the best seat and gave a photo book. Finally watched bonfire Noh. Blown away. Wanted to cry. Taxied back to hostel.

Day 2:
MANY buses and 1 taxi later. Happy, Safe and un-Kidnapped.
Finally completed my somewhat pilgrimage aim. What a day…
Took the 7:28am bus out of Himezu and went to Aikawa, transferred bus and went to this place called Imizu and started my day with a (somewhat wild goose chase) trip to Shohoji Temple. Wasn’t able to see a famous Noh mask…BUT got to see a stone bench that Zeami Motokiyo apparently sat on!
Then took a bus to Sawata and talked to the tourism info people to come up with a plan. (I accidentally got off thinking sawata wld have more to do)
Then took a bus to Kin-zan (gold mountain) where they used to mine for gold in the days. The place was beautiful and surprisingly COLD. Seriously, Sado seems to get a lot colder than Toyama! Anw, went through tunnels and went to the top where you see the mountain cleaved in two. This point is called Doyu no Wareto.
THEN, just to feel rich, I ate gold flaked ice-cream. Cuz in Japan, EVERYTHING is made into soft-serve ice-cream.
After my gold journey, I hopped on another bus to visit this place called Kitazawa floatation and power plant. It’s used to be the biggest gold ore concentrator in East Asia but was shut down after the war… And now it’s over-run with weeds, grass and nature… Cuz circle of life. Loved that place. So many possibilities.
I then strolled up a bit and saw the Bugyosho (some important building… But I didn’t have much interest in it) and an old bell called Jishoro to pass time before I ran to catch my next bus.
Ran to my next bus. I thought I’d have to go back to Aikawa but the bus driver informed me that if I wanted to go to the Noh performance that I’d mentioned, I should get off at an earlier stop and walk.
And THEN, I bumped into the guy who’d composed the music for part of the performance and he brought me along to the performance area (another member of the team gave us a lift) and I reached about 3 hours early. =_= they were real nice tho and let me watch the rehearsal and let me have the best seat and gave a photo book.
Finally watched bonfire Noh. Blown away.
Wanted to cry.
Taxied back to hostel.

More reflection on the Takigi Noh (bonfire noh): the prime time to visit Sado for Takigi Noh is actually June. You have NUMEROUS performances by locals all over the island. Unfortunately, June is also a very busy academic period for me…so I’ll probably have to visit again.

The show I watched had 3 segments. A Kyogen, a Noh and a contemporary ballet/noh mix thing. I personally liked the Noh performance the most. It was a performance of Kakitsubata. I think, Noh can go 2 ways…really good or really really bad. Really really bad because it’s such a slow art form….if the tension isn’t held…it just gets really boring.

This performance however, was mesmerising. At moments, I thought I saw the mouth of the mask move.
The moment when the non-human character revealed herself, gave me goosebumps. Played at night, with the bonfire burning at the sides…it was so magical. I believed it.

For anyone who wants to know more about what I watched:
http://www.the-noh.com/en/plays/data/program_029.html

This was the reason I’d started to love Japan, and I was in the place where the man who developed it to what it is today was exiled. It all felt very right.

Day 3: Alive, Safe and DRENCHED. Temple Hopping and Kodō Concert. Woke up a little later... Left the youth hostel (still on the first bus out). It began to rain. Said rain lasted ALL day. FIRST temple: Daizenji. Old old Noh Stage. They're just EVERYWHERE, these Noh stages. One third of Japan's Noh stages are on Sado. #fact SECOND temple: Myosenji! 5 story pagoda temple devoted to the Nichiren sect of Buddhism. Took 30 years to build and was originally at a tots different site. THIRD temple: Komponji. One of the most important temples dedicated to Nichiren (this guy's pretty famous here, lots of temples for him). It's got a statue of him, a bell tower and a pagoda. FOURTH temple: Seisuiji. This one was preeetty far out. I shamelessly took a hitch hike ride while looking super lost from 2 very kind people on their pick-up trucks. This temple was interesting, it was actually a copy of Kyoto's famous Kiyomizudera and also shares the same Kanji! Unfortunately, can't say it shares the same glory... But it's got such a nice historical background! Note: all this was by bus. Cuz i posses the all you can ride ticket. THEN, I took 2 busses towards Ogi, and Oh Lordy the busses were packed with people like me with HUGE backpacks. Met SO many nice people and made friends grin emoticon I came down to Sobama Campground to settle my tent (staying here for 3 nights, yay) and went back to Ogi for the marketplace and Taiko performance. MET ELIZABETH!!!! and we both enjoyed a VERY rainy but AMAZING taiko performance by Kodō. Now: at campground. Met more people (i cannot begin to say how happy i am to meet young people given my luck with old people). Am finally back in my tent, aaaaand its raining outside. Reflection point: not quite sure abt my shower situation or my food situation. Also, not sure how im gonna get out of this place by 6:15 am (latest tmr). Life. Thank God for Calorie Mate.

Day 3:
Alive, Safe and DRENCHED.
Temple Hopping and Kodō Concert.
Woke up a little later… Left the youth hostel (still on the first bus out). It began to rain. Said rain lasted ALL day.
FIRST temple: Daizenji. Old old Noh Stage. They’re just EVERYWHERE, these Noh stages. One third of Japan’s Noh stages are on Sado. #fact
SECOND temple: Myosenji! 5 story pagoda temple devoted to the Nichiren sect of Buddhism. Took 30 years to build and was originally at a tots different site.
THIRD temple: Komponji. One of the most important temples dedicated to Nichiren (this guy’s pretty famous here, lots of temples for him). It’s got a statue of him, a bell tower and a pagoda.
FOURTH temple: Seisuiji. This one was preeetty far out. I shamelessly took a hitch hike ride while looking super lost from 2 very kind people on their pick-up trucks. This temple was interesting, it was actually a copy of Kyoto’s famous Kiyomizudera and also shares the same Kanji! Unfortunately, can’t say it shares the same glory… But it’s got such a nice historical background!
Note: all this was by bus. Cuz i posses the all you can ride ticket.
THEN, I took 2 busses towards Ogi, and Oh Lordy the busses were packed with people like me with HUGE backpacks. Met SO many nice people and made friends grin emoticon
I came down to Sobama Campground to settle my tent (staying here for 3 nights, yay) and went back to Ogi for the marketplace and Taiko performance.
MET ELIZABETH!!!! and we both enjoyed a VERY rainy but AMAZING taiko performance by Kodō.
Now: at campground. Met more people (i cannot begin to say how happy i am to meet young people given my luck with old people). Am finally back in my tent, aaaaand its raining outside.
Reflection point: not quite sure abt my shower situation or my food situation. Also, not sure how im gonna get out of this place by 6:15 am (latest tmr). Life. Thank God for Calorie Mate.

 

Day 4: Alive and Shameless. A day for hitch-hiking and new friends. Had a terrible sleep. Woke up almost every hour. Woke at 5am, it was POURING. Realized my tent floor was slightly wet. This was not fun. Contemplated staying in my tent all day... But eventually the rain let up and I decided to try my luck in getting a ride out of the camp. Walked out. Tried not to look too suspicious. Saw a lady with a backpack and asked if she was going to Ogi by any chance. Lady's name was Emma. She wasn't going where I needed to but was still driving up north so she told me to hop on. Sooo, hop on I did. She was headed to a guided tour of a cedar forest and asked if i wanted to join. I really wanted to go up north to visit a cave (more on this later) so she said she'd be willing to drive with me up north after the cedar tour. Mind, I literally just met her this morning. We drove to the cedars and stopped at an interesting temple along the way! Cedar forest tour (¥3,500) , turned out to be really worth it. Also met more people (japanese and non) on the tour! The trees were so so interesting, bent and twisted into the most interesting shapes and sizes. Some looked almost human... As if in the midst of a dance. We came back to where Emma's car was parked and, Emma asked another lady, Keiko, to join us! 3 newly met people on Sado embarked on this road trip. Emma freelanced and wrote travel articles (amongst many other things) and Keiko, from Osaka, had just finished working at a factory and was looking for a change. We passed by a lot of very interesting rock formations. The first was a huge rock at the site where a British Dakota military transport plane semi-crash landed in Sado. The second rock formation, Futatsu-game is said to look like two turtles and locals believe that the third, Ono-game, houses a deity. On the path between these two sites, a natural cave has formed and it's called Sai no Kawara which contains hundreds of Jizos protecting dead children on their journey to their afterlife. Went back to festival market, had my dinner, and retired for the night. Not on my iphone, but stars are STUNNING.

Day 4:
Alive and Shameless.
A day for hitch-hiking and new friends.
Had a terrible sleep. Woke up almost every hour. Woke at 5am, it was POURING. Realized my tent floor was slightly wet. This was not fun. Contemplated staying in my tent all day… But eventually the rain let up and I decided to try my luck in getting a ride out of the camp.
Walked out. Tried not to look too suspicious. Saw a lady with a backpack and asked if she was going to Ogi by any chance.
Lady’s name was Emma. She wasn’t going where I needed to but was still driving up north so she told me to hop on. Sooo, hop on I did.
She was headed to a guided tour of a cedar forest and asked if i wanted to join. I really wanted to go up north to visit a cave (more on this later) so she said she’d be willing to drive with me up north after the cedar tour.
Mind, I literally just met her this morning.
We drove to the cedars and stopped at an interesting temple along the way!
Cedar forest tour (¥3,500) , turned out to be really worth it. Also met more people (japanese and non) on the tour! The trees were so so interesting, bent and twisted into the most interesting shapes and sizes. Some looked almost human… As if in the midst of a dance.
We came back to where Emma’s car was parked and, Emma asked another lady, Keiko, to join us!
3 newly met people on Sado embarked on this road trip. Emma freelanced and wrote travel articles (amongst many other things) and Keiko, from Osaka, had just finished working at a factory and was looking for a change.
We passed by a lot of very interesting rock formations. The first was a huge rock at the site where a British Dakota military transport plane semi-crash landed in Sado.
The second rock formation, Futatsu-game is said to look like two turtles and locals believe that the third, Ono-game, houses a deity.
On the path between these two sites, a natural cave has formed and it’s called Sai no Kawara which contains hundreds of Jizos protecting dead children on their journey to their afterlife.
Went back to festival market, had my dinner, and retired for the night. Not on my iphone, but stars are STUNNING.

 

Day 5: Late update, but still alive! I was just so tired yesterday. So the day started out with me hitching a ride with the lovely Emma. We managed to pay Rengebuji a visit before heading for Ogi. It's a HUGE temple complex and is one of the three most important temples in esoteric Shingon Buddhism. Really pretty. After reaching Ogi, Emma and I parted ways. I grabbed some breakfast at the arts market and then went on to watch a Miyake Daiko fringe event at the Ogi Gymnasium for free. It was so amazingly spectacular, the movement work put into the drumming was just SO intense. THEN, after floundering around for an hour, I decided to take the 2:00pm bus to the Gold Park. BUT, I still had an hour-ish of nothing to do...so what better way to spend an hour than to get a GeoParks tour (in English!) by a retired gentleman. My guide, Mr. Sasaki, turned out to be a retired English Teacher/Principal who had an interest in Geography and was trying to learn Chinese. For 200yen, I walked around the Shiroyama Park area where he explained to me that many years ago a volcano had erupted underwater to form the island and that you could still see where the lava had covered the land before it rose above sea levels to form Sado! Ah-mazing. I got SO much information in less than an hour and still managed to have a friendly chat with Mr. Sasaki (he wanted to forget his teacher life and actually didn't wanna speak English.) THEN! Sieved for gold! And got some! SUH rich. Oh, and forgot to mention, I decided to attend another kodo performance at the last minute after i saw someone trying to sell their ticket at ¥3,000 (usually ¥5,500). A cross-cultural concert between Balinese and Taiko music left me so touched on so many levels... So glad I attended. The Balinese music... Even without ANY chanting, I could HEAR the cak cak cak in the way they play and they looked so HAPPY onstage. To wrap it all off, I ended the day by stargazing in the carpark of my campsite with Elizabeth. Saw a shooting star. Made a wish. Life felt so at peace. Couldn't believe I'd have to return to mainland the next day.

Day 5: Late update, but still alive!
I was just so tired yesterday.
So the day started out with me hitching a ride with the lovely Emma.
We managed to pay Rengebuji a visit before heading for Ogi. It’s a HUGE temple complex and is one of the three most important temples in esoteric Shingon Buddhism. Really pretty.
After reaching Ogi, Emma and I parted ways. I grabbed some breakfast at the arts market and then went on to watch a Miyake Daiko fringe event at the Ogi Gymnasium for free. It was so amazingly spectacular, the movement work put into the drumming was just SO intense.
THEN, after floundering around for an hour, I decided to take the 2:00pm bus to the Gold Park. BUT, I still had an hour-ish of nothing to do…so what better way to spend an hour than to get a GeoParks tour (in English!) by a retired gentleman. My guide, Mr. Sasaki, turned out to be a retired English Teacher/Principal who had an interest in Geography and was trying to learn Chinese. For 200yen, I walked around the Shiroyama Park area where he explained to me that many years ago a volcano had erupted underwater to form the island and that you could still see where the lava had covered the land before it rose above sea levels to form Sado! Ah-mazing. I got SO much information in less than an hour and still managed to have a friendly chat with Mr. Sasaki (he wanted to forget his teacher life and actually didn’t wanna speak English.)
THEN! Sieved for gold! And got some! SUH rich.
Oh, and forgot to mention, I decided to attend another kodo performance at the last minute after i saw someone trying to sell their ticket at ¥3,000 (usually ¥5,500). A cross-cultural concert between Balinese and Taiko music left me so touched on so many levels… So glad I attended. The Balinese music… Even without ANY chanting, I could HEAR the cak cak cak in the way they play and they looked so HAPPY onstage.
To wrap it all off, I ended the day by stargazing in the carpark of my campsite with Elizabeth. Saw a shooting star. Made a wish. Life felt so at peace.
Couldn’t believe I’d have to return to mainland the next day.

 

Day 6: Alive and Back (to reality). Final adventures on Hippie Island. Once again freeloaded off the very kind Emma and today we'd decided to explore Ogi which is at the tip of Sado. Got a lovely view from above Sobama beach and shortly after we found an old man painting the road in very cheerful colours although he didn't seem interested in talking to us much. We saw a couple of volcanic rock formations along the coast and then saw the most interesting sight of farmers harvesting rice. The whole process was so interesting and they were very happy to let us take pictures. Then we went to this amazing place called Shukunegi where ships used to be built. This neighborhood had some very uniquely designed homes (people still live in some of them). Very very lovely. Finally, we went for a ride in the local Tarai-bune (¥500) near Yajima and Kyoujima. Mr Sasaki from yesterday's GeoPark tour pointed these islands out to me from Shiroyama and told me some very interesting stories behind them. Tarai-Buneing was SO fun (well at least MY idea of fun). The lady steering even let me have a go at it. I'm surprised the big bucket boat didn't capsize. The traditional fishing boat is mainly found on Sado and you can see the clear clear water up close. After our ride we walked along the 2 islands for a bit before heading for the port. We parted ways and she went to look at some temples I'd already seen and I went omiyage shopping and phone charging. All too soon, I was on the Ferry and as a small group of people waved us off, we shouted back (some waving hankies) as a group that we'd all come back. The ferry docked into Naoetsu Port as the sun set. Emma (really, bless her soul) drove me up to Itoigawa (closer to Toyama) and we said our goodbyes. 6 days felt like a month and I really miss Sado, but as always, I'm glad to be back in #amazingtoyama #tadaima Now: Happy in Starbucks and civilization that has trains and actual convenience stores.

Day 6: Alive and Back (to reality).
Final adventures on Hippie Island.
Once again freeloaded off the very kind Emma and today we’d decided to explore Ogi which is at the tip of Sado.
Got a lovely view from above Sobama beach and shortly after we found an old man painting the road in very cheerful colours although he didn’t seem interested in talking to us much.
We saw a couple of volcanic rock formations along the coast and then saw the most interesting sight of farmers harvesting rice. The whole process was so interesting and they were very happy to let us take pictures.
Then we went to this amazing place called Shukunegi where ships used to be built. This neighborhood had some very uniquely designed homes (people still live in some of them). Very very lovely.
Finally, we went for a ride in the local Tarai-bune (¥500) near Yajima and Kyoujima. Mr Sasaki from yesterday’s GeoPark tour pointed these islands out to me from Shiroyama and told me some very interesting stories behind them. Tarai-Buneing was SO fun (well at least MY idea of fun). The lady steering even let me have a go at it. I’m surprised the big bucket boat didn’t capsize. The traditional fishing boat is mainly found on Sado and you can see the clear clear water up close.
After our ride we walked along the 2 islands for a bit before heading for the port. We parted ways and she went to look at some temples I’d already seen and I went omiyage shopping and phone charging.
All too soon, I was on the Ferry and as a small group of people waved us off, we shouted back (some waving hankies) as a group that we’d all come back.
The ferry docked into Naoetsu Port as the sun set. Emma (really, bless her soul) drove me up to Itoigawa (closer to Toyama) and we said our goodbyes.
6 days felt like a month and I really miss Sado, but as always, I’m glad to be back in #amazingtoyama #tadaima
Now: Happy in Starbucks and civilization that has trains and actual convenience stores.

 

 

So, back in Toyama, Sado feels like a dream. 6 days of adventures and seeing and doing things I’d never usually get the chance to. It’s NOTHING like Tokyo or Osaka or the big cities, and it’s downright inconvenient at times. I did a LOT of glancing at the bus time tables and had borderline breakdowns.  By the end of the trip, I had a whole stack of brochures and maps and schedules in my backpack. =_= Food was also a constant worry (I had NO idea what I was gonna vegetarian it out the next day) but I got by pretty well thanks to the Arts Market (they had AMAZING pastas, tortilla wraps and naans) , random convenience stores (there are only 7 or 8 on the island) and the mom and pop shop.

But I think I grew up a little, thanks to this experience. I took a lot of things into my own hands and because I went there alone, I just took a lot of responsibilities for the choices I made.

All this put together, made Sado the best trip of my life.
So glad I’m alive.

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